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Sao Miguel-Haven in the Azores
The Azorean island of Sao Miguel (pronounced 'so' or 'sow' Miguel) is an island in the Atlantic of old-world charm, European feel, and spectacular scenery. Sao Miguel's capital city, Ponta Delgada, on the south side of the island, is European in character: with narrow cobblestone streets, old architecture, and motorists that seem to be driving much too fast!
Sao Miguel is in the eastern group of a group of nine beautiful islands called the Azores, of volcanic origin. This makes the landscape frequently hilly--a geologist would likely recognize immediately the sheer cliffs and rolling hills as having characteristic volcanic features.
My eight-day visit to Sao Miguel was in December, the depth of winter. In the middle of the Atlantic, that means rain! However, it is not unusual to have light rain or fog in the morning, and a sunny day by the early afternoon.
Although at the rough latitude of Maryland, the Azores, part of Portugal, are warmer than the corresponding latitude in the United States. The warm waters of the gulf stream wind their way through the central Atlantic Ocean, warming the surrounding regions. Visiting from the United States, I was able to trade my winter coat for a light unzipped jacket. The breeze felt pleasant, almost warm, blowing up through the streets from Ponta Delgada's bay.
As I was visiting a knowledgeable friend in Ponta Delgada, he was able to be my tour guide. We divided our time between the city--navigating the cobblestone streets and cafes along the main street--and rent-a-car visits to the countryside.
Ponta Delgada's wide main street (the Avenida), is made of white and black volcanic stones, and closely hugs the harbor. This is a working harbor; the Azores have a history as a strategic location for sailors so you may see tankers and freighters from Europe, Russia--all around the world.
The architecture and the famous "Arch" on the Avenida, is balanced with a few modern features, like the modern shopping mall "Sol Mar," with its three floors and several movie theaters, and a Baskin and Robbins ice cream shop--called "Baskin" by the locals.
You will want to rent a car and get out into the country. There, you will see beautiful rolling green fields punctuated by a darker green of hedgerows--the individual farmers having planted bushes to divide one farmer's field from another. I am told they plant a type of bush they know the cows will not eat!
On Sao Miguel, an agricultural society is alive and well. Milk, mild Sao Miguel cheese, goat cheese, delicious pineapples, tobacco, and tea are some of the products. You will certainly see farmers tending their cows or walking their goats; and in the evening, it is not out of the ordinary to be dining back in the city, on a steak raised from free-range beef.
One sight that is frequent in the countryside, is a wagon driven by a boy of fourteen or so, with his twelve-year-old brother draped, apparently resting, across a load of hay in the back.
An American traveler will not have much trouble with English here, at least in Ponta Delgada. Like many parts of the world today, English is taught in schools; many people are anxious to practice it. My Portuguese is limited to what I've learned from tapes, books and my Portuguese-American friend. Nevertheless, as I ventured out into Ponta Delgada alone, I had no trouble. When my glasses broke, I located the optometrist, and ordered coffee in the cafes, with a small Berlitz language guide as my companion.
The people of Sao Miguel are friendly: As the sun was going down one day, I got lost; only to be rescued by a gentleman who drove me through the winding streets, right to my door!
My friend and tour-guide was able to take me around the island, but I think you could survive without a knowledgeable guide. Car rental ran about 195 dollars (U.S.) for 6 days--but a map would be helpful. You can travel around the entire island in one day, but it would be better to take two day trips if you are able.
On the northeastern part of the island, called Nordeste (Northeast) the one lane road winds around the edges of deep gorges offering spectacular views of the Atlantic. Other regions you'll want to see are the volcanic hot springs (Caldeiras) in the village of Furnas, and Sete Cidades, beautiful blue and green lakes inside a volcanic crater in the west.
If you want to visit, the island of Sao Miguel is about 2000 miles, or 5 and one half hours flying time, from the eastern United States. Air Portugal (TAP) flies nearly every week to Sao Miguel from the eastern United States, with excellent food and service.
In September or May, the hydrangeas and azaleas are in bloom, and the temperature is just right (it gets a little hot in the middle months of summer).
But whenever you go, in Sao Miguel, you will enjoy the slower pace, friendly people, and beautiful views of nature.
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